Meet Our Team

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Ben Polanco

Routesetter

Do you have a setting / design process you follow in order to create?

Yeah, well kind of. . . After I select the grade I'm going to set, I'll pick a hold that will inspire my route and 80% of the time I don't even use the darn hold.

What do you listen to while setting?

Lately it's been 80's freestyle artists like Debbie Deb, Stevie B, Johnny O, Nice & wild. To be honest it can be anything from Rock to Show tone to Disney musicals ( I listen to that when I'm setting mean routes or boulders)

How did you find climbing?

I found climbing through my Aunt. When I was twelve she took me climbing and I liked it a lot. She moved to L.A for a year and when she moved back to Oakland, I asked her to take me again. Since it was close to December she got me a six-month membership to the gym on their youth climbing team. Once I started it was game over and I was hooked.

Did you have a mentor?

Yes I did, His name Is Greg Loh.

How has climbing changed you for the better?

This is a rather complex question. As a child climbing keep me off the streets since I grew up in a not so good Neighborhood. As I got older it saved me from myself, since I used it as a tool to overcome my drug addiction in my early 20's. I can easily say if it wasn't forrock climbing I don't think I would be here still.

Who makes the best impact driver?

I'd say Hilti or if you like to customize your drill Makita

Top-outs or finish holds... Thoughts?

Finish holds all day . Force that movement.

Who’s making the best holds on market right now?

Expression and Flathold

How have you seen gyms change in your climbing career?

Oh man, where to begin, when I first started climbing gyms where relatively new. They were made of steel with wooden panels covered in mortar plaster, with climbing hold made from wood, concrete and some plastic. Not just any plastic but polystyrene which made holds feel like terracotta pots and just as fragile. To these massive, prefabricated gyms, with holds made of Urethane and fiberglass. It's a trip watching the death of mom-and-pop gym and the rise of massive climbing gym corporations.

How important is forerunning?

It's the most important thing when it comes to Routesetting.

What is it?

It's pre-climbing of a Route or boulder to make sure it goes for the customer or the comp climber depending on situation.

b. What goes on during a forerunning session?

A few things, 1) make sure the Route or boulder is fair for the grade 2) making sure it is accessible for people of all sizes 3) making sure it's safe for people to climbing, if you setting a boulder making sure that the falls are as safe as possible, if setting routes making sure all clips and falls are also safe.

Should climbing always be fun?

Hell yeah, if it isn't fun then why are you doing it. Might as well be playing baseball or American football to make you folks happy for doing a "real sport". I know that was oddly specific.

a. How much failure is involved with setting/climbing?

Thats all it is, if you don't fail, you'll never evolve as a climber

b. What can climbers learn from negative experiences?

What type 2 fun is.

Could setters be described as translators between outdoor and indoor climbing?

NO!

a. Thoughts?

Theres absolutely nothing translatable from outdoor climbing to indoor setting. Climbing indoor should be seen as a way to teach your body how to move efficiently and effectively on a wall

Is climbing emotional?

No but I am.

a. How so?

I'm sensitive and like to cry, mostly while scared. I feel like that one was an over share.

b. How does that relate to your route-setting?

I like to make people scared on my routes. That why I'm not the only cry baby in the room

What are some general differences between competition setting and commercial setting?

When it comes to comp setting my intention is to challenge the competitor while trying to evenly separate the climbing field. In commercial setting I'm trying to make fun routes that are engaging and challenging, for all.

Why do you put us (climbers) in such uncomfortable climbing positions?

Because why not, climbing isn't always straightforward so why would I. Please see comment about making people cry, Thank you

a. Do you enjoy the process of challenging climbers?

Yes, I like to make people think while on my routes

What are your weaknesses in climbing?

Staying awake, oh, and actually climbing

Route Setting in five words... Go!

When in doubt run it out, damn! Thats six words

Okay, um..... Turtles are my favorite animal, five, nailed it.